I certainly aint no mechanic, but I once had a chevy with similar symptoms... and if I turned on the ignition and pushed the shifter harder into park (forwards, it was an automatic) something would connect and it would start. Although it was in "park" sometimes it acted like the shifter was not in park but in "reverse".
Sounds a lot like one of two possibilities to me, one is that the battery has a bad cell in it that functions intermittantly (fluctuating dc voltage between 10.5 volts and 12.6 volts) and the other is high resistance in the start mode of the ignition switch consequently not having enough amperage to close the circuit on the control side othe start relay. Just my two pennies worth.
You didn't say how old the battery is, but that is where I'd start. A battery is usually good for 3 years. If still alive at 4 years, you're doing great, and beginning to live on borrowed time. I had a Suburban that behaved as you described, had the battery tested, it was weak and about 4 years, so it was replaced, did not have any issue after that.
While what you say sounds plausible I know from experience that waiting sometimes "builds" it back up. It is why you can crank on it until the starter won't turn over and get nothing but a click then come back an hour later and it will turn over again. Now that I've seen a few others pipe in I'm betting it is a bad connection also. Either you have a loose cable or corrosion somewhere.
Well, issue's happening again today, and this time it won't start even when I wait a while. Have been waiting to try to jump it because I'm hoping I can use the repeated issue as a way to diagnose it. The battery connections are tight, and don't look corroded. Unfortunately, I don't know how to find where the starter connects, and wouldn't you know I seem to have the one model of a car that Haynes and Chilton's doesn't make a manual for. I'm going to attempt to research it online, but if anyone can point me in the right direction, would be appreciated.
Sounds like you like these guys. I appreciate being pointed to a service shop that can be trusted, so you'd recommend them?
I've been very happy. They only fix what is broken and they have top mechanics. I took my old '96 Explorer to the Ford place when the A/C went out once and they wanted $2700 to replace the entire system--condenser, compressor, pipes, everything. "Did everything fail at once" I asked and they said the only way they would guarantee their work was to replace the whole system because "these parts fail in sequence". I told them they were full of chit and took it to G & S. They said I had a leaking compressor and replaced it for $675--guaranteed. I sold the truck five years later and the A/C still worked like a charm.
Being in South Baton Rouge you can head to a place near Gonzales called Johnny Robinson Automotive and ask for Jesse. Tell him Rick sent you. Either way PM me and I can give you directions or see if I can make it out and take a look for you.
To update you guys, the other night I brought it by Advanced Auto Parts and they ran there automated test over the system. The battery and alternator checked out fine. The starter did as well, but the car was not having the issue at that point, so it may be a false positive. If the battery or alternator were the issue, I'd think they'd fail a test like that. I'm going to take the car into Gordon & Sandifer's during my lunch break. Got quotes from both shops and decide to go with G&S this time because it will be easier for me to get over there a couple of times than out to Gonzales, but will keep Johnny Robinson in mind if we have any other issues. Thanks for the help, I'll keep you guys posted.
